A reader sent in a query as to why his speedo wasn't working.
There are basically three causes, and therefore three places to check (or at least start your investigation).
1) Drive from the wheel (we like old school bikes, no electronic senders here)
Take the H2 in the attached pictures, same symptoms, that is the speedometer wasn't moving from zero.
First check - Is the drive cog turning? In this case, yes, we could see it moving as we spun the front wheel.
Next, check if the cable seated properly and intact (i.e. not snapped somewhere within it's outer sheath.).
And here is the culprit, the drive end fork had sheared at the joint with the capillary cable.
Here is a close up of the sheared face.
So a replacement cable was ordered. If the cable had checked as OK the next step would have been to check the speedometer itself. Sometimes with age or accident damage they can expire internally.
Here is the replacement, not NOS, but from a reputable Japanese manufacturer.
Here we are winding on the knurled connector at the speedometer end. It can be hard to get these really tight if your fingers are oily or sweaty...clean them first. If you use pliers, or other mechanical assistance, the aluminium knurled surface will be scratched or deformed easily.
Here we are orienting the slotted end to align with the drive (the bit that looks like a small blade screw driver end inside the speedometer drive). This makes the whole process much simpler...
You know the drive and slotted end are aligned when the fitting slides all the way in, as pictured below.
Tighten the lower knurled connector and you are ready to test ride.